Bade Papa at The Maidaan

If nothing, Bade Papa was a character!

 

Bade Papa was my father’s elder brother. Popularly known as Masterji (having worked for a time as a teacher in his early days when he moved to Calcutta from a Bihar village), fair and handsome, he was a dapper dresser who was able to carry off a bright yellow shirt with a fawn suit, unlike most Indians who preferred to be conservatively dressed. This was in the late fifties and sixties, of the last century.

 

He was fond of the good life, probably a result of having travelled extensively around the world – a rarity in those days. He loved his drink, his afternoon coffee (Trinca’s in Park Street of Calcutta was his favorite haunt), quality Mughlai dishes (at Ambar), and English novels.

 

While he was a loving person, at times he also displayed a quick temper, though this did not last for any length of time. This would sometimes result in funny situations.

 

One of his favourite places was the Maidaan, or the sprawling grounds in of Victoria Memorial. It was the happening place during evenings in Calcutta. Every evening, huge crowds would gather in the park of sorts – boisterous children, beautifully dressed ladies, casually and fashionably dressed couples, elderly patriarchs, a few drunkards, a few lechers and pickpockets – they would all be there.

 

It was an oasis in the evenings to escape the humid heat of Calcutta. A cool breeze, a carpet of lush grass, a well paved sidewalk, Tongas to take you around, the grand Victoria Memorial overlooking the grounds, the beautifully carved statue of Queen Victoria in the centre of the roundabout – all providing the right inputs for an enjoyable evening.

 

The enjoyment was enhanced by the presence of vendors of all variety, though the most popular were the fast food vendors. For Indians, enjoyment is complete only if there is food around – great in taste and variety and light on the pocket.

 

The Maidaan fulfilled this need admirably. From Dahi Badas, Chillas, Bhel Puri, Jhal Muri, Dosa, Idly, Phuchka, Churmur, Chops, Chanachur Garam, soft drinks, ice creams every type of fast food was available. The vendors had a typical portable mechanism to set up shop close to the prospective clients and one did not really have to search for their preferred vendor or food. One just needed to stay put and ask any close by vendor to pass the message. The mountain would come to Mohammed!

 

Apart from the food vendors, other things were also available. Masseuses with oil bottles, balloons, various toys, people cleaning ears (rather risky!), tonga-wallahs, mini merry-go-rounds, flower vendors, Paan (betel leaf- a favorite of Indians) and much more. It was said that one particular paan vendor – Bhagelu, as he was known owned three high end apartments in Theatre Road a high end area of Calcutta! Most senior executives could not afford one.

 

Bhagelu worked like an automaton. With a slab of ice in front of him to accommodate about thirty betel leaves spread side by side, a variety of masala boxes and a multi-purpose cloth to wipe his hands on Bhagelu presented an impressive picture. Rather fat, with at least four paans in his mouth constantly, he spoke little. His hands moved with great speed and dexterity constantly from about 6 PM until well past 11 PM. He, like other vendors, had terrific memory, for each order was an unique combination of things to be put into the paan and with barely an acknowledgement of a nod, he delivered without a mistake in all the years that I observed him.

 

Each regular to the Maidaan had a set of favorite vendor. For bade Papa it was Bhagelu for Paan, Pagla for soft drinks, Sukhari for Chana Jor Garam, and I forget the names of the ones for Chilla, Kulfi, massage. All these vendors would spot Bade Papa and no words were exchanged, each knew what was required and delivered it in the correct order.

 

The Chana Jor Garam (his mixtures were heavenly!), the Chilla, the Kanji Vada, the soft drinks, the Kulfi, and finally the paan (four to be consumed there and twelve packed for the night) would be delivered in that order. The numbers would be judged correctly by the vendors and not once was Bade Papa bothered for the details!

 

These relationships had forged over the years and so much trust had grown that often we children would be left in the care of any one of them for a few hours while Bade Papa had to attend to some business. If on some days Bade Papa did not accompany us none of the vendors would accept payment from us. Bade Papa would settle the accounts whenever he came.

 

There were numerous flower vendors who would have many types of arrangements were popular adornments for female hairstyles. While this was very popular, the competition amongst vendors was stiff owing to their large numbers and hence these vendors were often very aggressive.

 

One day as soon as we arrived at the Maidaan and were barely out of the car, a bunch of such flower vendors piled on and they were extra aggressive on that day. Unfortunately, neither my mother nor my aunt was there on that day so Bade Papa politely refused. However, the vendors refused to go away, continued to pester him, and kept on following us. Bade Papa was getting irritated but controlling his irritation well.

 

Only for so long!

 

When the pestering continued, suddenly he turned towards them and said “Lo Joode mein Laga do! (Come adorn my hair with your flowers!) .

 

The vendors, confronted with a shining bald pate, were initially at a loss for words but soon understood that he was actually very, very irritated. They also got the humor of the situation and forgetting their need to sell, were laughing.

 

Bade Papa also saw their smiles and cooled down immediately.

 

His smile matched theirs!